1. Extension PCB must be installed, please refer to this article for details:
Cetus MK3 Upgrade Guide for Extension PCB
2. A suitable Power supply. User can either buy a 220W (output: 24V, 9.16A) power supply from Tiertime Store or use a 3rd party power supply of 24V with enough power.
Step1. Install the Heated Build Platform onto X-axis：
Remove Protective Film
Install Heated Platform onto the X-axis linear rail slider.
Step2. Connect the Ribbon Cable
Insert ribbon cable from heated bed through the space between Z-motor and Z-bracket.
On the other side, fold the cable like this.
Press fit the cable tide into the extrusion slot, locking the cable in place.
On the Extension PCB side fold the ribbon cable so its metal pins are facing outward (opposite to the PCB).
Move the platform backward to the very end of X axis, make sure the ribbon cable is not stretched.
Step3. Connect Power Cord to Mainboard.
The original 90W power supply is not enough to drive the heated bed and printer. Therefore users need to have a suitable power supply to support the upgrade. The new power supply will be connected to the extension board to power the heated bed and at the same time connect to the mainboard to power other part of the machine.
The 4 pin power connector is for use with the 220W power supply from Tiertime. The White marked below is for using 3rd party power supply provided by users.
Fork shaped terminals are soldered on the other side of the cable, convient for connecting to 3rd party power sources. It require the power output to be 24V.
Step4. Put on the Print Boards.
The print board is perforated. It can be clamped onto the heate build platform by using provide clips.
The perforated print boards are useful for printing materials such as ABS, PC, PP etc, as it allow the print to root into the surface therefore providing firm adhesion to prevent warpping.
So the white cable replaced the yellow connector. I could have saved some $40 by buying a 3rd party power supply, but I figured Tiertime offer excellent support so I'll give them a little more business by buying the 220W power module. :D
@Jason Thanks for this detailed guide, that answered most of my questions!
I have one remaining issue with a new bracket to mount the platform to (that was part of the package). I suppose it has better properties regarding heat resistance and/or absorption compared to the original one.
My problem is the little dent in the fold (that looks intentional) does not allow it to be attached evenly and firmly onto the guide block. Should there be a spacer underneath to make up for the dent and also insulate the heat from the guide block?
Firmly fastened screw:
I designed a simple 1.5 mm thick spacer to compensate the dent between the guide block and the bracket. It works well enough, I hope also long term. You'll find the model here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3672758
Sorry for the defective part, it supposed to be flat on the surface. We have shipped a few of these, anyone got the part and not fitting could contact us for an replacement.
Thanks Jason! Just contacted you via mail.
Sorry, to pick this up again. I received a replacement bracket a couple months ago, but it was the same as the one that came with the printer originally. The mounting bracket that came with the heatbed upgrade is quite different, material-wise and with the cut-outs. I wondered, but didn't think much of it.
Now, I just browsed the Tiertime shop for some parts and I stumbled upon the heatbed upgrade offering and the product photos show the exact same bracket with that dent in the same position as the one I received with my heatbed upgrade order (https://shop.tiertime.com/product/heated-bed-for-cetus-mk3-china-stock/ - I don't recall if those photos were present when I ordered). I'm confused now, is the bracket with the cut-outs on the side and the dent the right one to use with the heated bed? (likely for thermal reasons) And how am I supposed to mount it flat on the guide block? The guide skips this step entirely.
I can only confirm, received the same piece, only toubles. The only solution to put the old one back.
superhans You are correct, the guide completely skips this step, and I was curious where this went, I presumed it was a heat guard to be placed somewhere else. It wasn't until I scrolled down to your comment that I realized what the bracket was. The one I received is the one with the cutouts on the side. In addition, it looks like they addressed the bump issue on the inside by simply grinding it flat. Notch is still there (presume for strength), but ground flat (half hazardly mind you) to sit flush.
Also, my kit didn't include the 10-pin flat ribbon cable, which connects to the main board. I've already ordered one from a 3rd party, as I didn't feel like waiting for support, to ship one. Though support is generally great, so no knock there, I'm just impatient :)
Please sign in to leave a comment.